Cinabre is a surprising rose that begins spicy, then shape-shifts into powdery pink air before drying down into a deep, smokey sweetness. It announces itself with an attention-grabbing blast of warm, gingery peppercorn that conjures the color of its name: the deep brick red of cinnabar. Moments later, a medley of roses rushes to the foreground to soften razor-sharp edges. By the time vanilla and myrrh round out the base, Signora Gentile’s composition has undergone a surprising transformation that is classic, satisfying, and daringly unique. Notes include ginger, black pepper, rose baies, Splendens rose, Moroccan rose, benzoin, vanilla, and opoponax.
Maria Candida Gentile is the only Italian maître parfumeur to graduate in the last 30 years from the prestigious Grasse Institute of Perfumery. There, schooled by professor Carol André, she completed her education that had begun at the École Isipca in Versailles. As a nose, she created several fragrances for notable niche brands, such as Vittoria Apuana for Profumi del Forte and Bateau for Farmacia SS Annunziata. For Aveda, she studied the organic biodynamics of shampoo, conditioner, and body lotions. She divides her time between Sarzana in Liguria, Italy; and Grasse, France. Read an interview with Maria or learn more at www.mariacandidagentile.com
Cinabre blends the essences of the Moroccan Splendens roses, absolute of May roses, and pure vanilla to recreate—seemingly by magic—the scent of the Ayrshire rose Splendens, an ancient rose well known for having exquisite notes of myrrh. "I was looking for a balance between spicy roses and vanilla, but finally I understood that I did not want a balance but an alchemy," Gentile says.